Taking a dive...and loving it             

by Karen Hayes                                                            

(originally published in ARKANSAS TIMES, November 8, 1996)

Bobby J. Hayes is not a morning person.   A club musician for all of his (so-called) adult life, my husband treats the noon news as his own personal "Good Morning America."  That's when he starts to wake up, work the crossword, drink tea and consider breakfast.  It is a time-honored, if not necessarily wife-honored, routine.  Only one event turns it completely and amazingly around:  Blackbeard.

On a Blackbeard cruise, it is typical to see Bob Hayes hit the deck before sunrise, drink coffee, eat pancakes, assemble and don somewhat complex gear and jump into the Caribbean Sea before "Good Morning America" is more than half over.  To say the least, it's out of character.

We were certified as scuba divers by The Dive Shop in North Little Rock three years ago.  Travel, both business and pleasure, has always been a big part of our lives together.  Our pleasure trips were the usual mix of sightseeing, shopping, general goofing off and eating our weight daily in restaurant food.  Not any more.  Now, we dive.

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Blackbeard's three sailing boats

On the last Saturday in September, we departed Miami on Blackbeard's 65-foot sailing ship, The Sea Explorer, for a week of diving in the Bahamas.  We traveled with 23 other folks from Little Rock, Memphis, and points close to home.  We set sail toward Bimini with a crew of six:   captain, first mate, engineer, dive master, cook and deck hand.  We were about to get to know all of the people on this boat a lot better.

Blackbeard's is best described as camping on water.  You sleep in a bunk.  You have roommates.  Sometimes they snore (sorry, April and Michael).  You share a head (that's boat talk for bathroom) and sink with a half-dozen other people.  There's a ton of salt water--about 2.3 million cubic miles--so you can shower all you want, but you do share the one shower on board with everybody else, and you're asked to limit the fresh-water portion of your shower to 30 seconds a day.

You won't need many clothes--pack swimsuits, T-shirts, shorts, some nylon warm-ups and you're done.  Meals are served buffet-style next to the galley.  You can grab a spot at the picnic-size table below or head up on deck and hold your plate in your lap.  This is not a cruise ship.  There will not be a mint on your pillow when you turn at night.

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Karen ready for a giant stride

 

                   The good news:  you dive a lot.   You will see spectacular fish and coral, guaranteed.  With luck, you'll see lobster, crab, moray eels, rays, turtles and sharks.  If you want, you can dive a little, laze around a little, eat lunch, dive again, and then make an early start on the rum punch.  You can help the crew sail, lie motionless in the sun or shade, fish, read or watch for flying fish and dolphins.  Bob played a little guitar--the first mate had one, and the deckhand was trying to learn.  You might stop for some snorkeling, shell collecting or a bonfire on the beach one night.  On a trip last year, we were on our way to to our first dive site of the day when our boat was swarmed by 50 or more dolphins during breakfast.  A cry of "stop the boat!" went up, and we dropped our coffee cups and grabbed snorkel gear to hop in the water with the beautiful wild things. 

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A lot closer than I thought, it looked smaller in the viewfinder!

On this trip, the outstanding wildlife experience for us was a shark dive at Bull Run.  As we descended to the sandy arena where the feeding would take place, we could see nurse (non-man-eating, pettable) sharks and reef (possibly man-and-woman-eating) sharks cruising the area.  When the food, a "sharksicle" made of hunks of frozen fish threaded on a line, was lowered into the water, the crowd went wild.  Seeing an eight-foot reef shark clamp down and thrash wildly to tear a bite from the line was enough to reinstate the word "awesome" to the adult vocabulary.  When the same shark passed an arm's-length above my head a few minutes later, I was happy to see his complete disinterest in me.

The other feeding frenzy on the trip was a human one.  Diving three or four times a day burns a lot of fuel.  I didn't miss a meal or a snack, and certainly not a dessert.  Bob may have missed a snack, but if he did, he ate two desserts.  The food was plentiful and various, and if by some miracle you ended up hungry and it wasn't time for a meal or a snack, there was a hammock of fruit hanging over the table, or you could make a peanut butter and jelly sandwich.  Juices, milk, and sodas were always available.  There was a beer tap on deck, and a liquor cabinet stocked with rum, vodka and wine below.  If you wanted something else, you were welcome to bring a bottle.  Rum punch appeared in a large thermos dispenser nightly, labeled initially as "Rum Punch," then as "El Diablo," and by the final night, "Don't Ask, Just Drink."  So we did.  After an active day, and occasionally a night dive, it didn't take much to put us to bed and asleep by 10 or 11, but some stayed up late to talk or just take in the moon and stars.

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Bob on make-shift hammock

 

Spending seven days and six nights in close quarters with 30 other people gives you and instant perspective on what it takes to get along in the world.  It seemed that almost everyone realized immediately that good humor and respect for one another were essential.  If you felt you needed more privacy, there was a very large ocean conveniently located below.

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Karen on the deck of "Sea Explorer"

We came home from our week on The Sea Explorer without some of the usual vacation baggage:  no 10 extra pounds, no critically injured pocketbook and no need to take a vacation to recover from our vacation.   The first night back, our own bed--and our own hot shower--felt good, but when I woke in the middle of the night and rose from bed, the room swung wildly as I tried to negotiate dry land with sea legs.  My sea legs were gone in a day or two, but I have another souvenir that I hope to keep until I go diving again:  a clear blue spot in my mind where I wait placidly for something to swim by.

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Bob, Karen, and friend in Bimini

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